The constant swells rolling in along Oahu’s north shore provide the perfect stage for some of Hawaii’s best performers – the local surfers. These folks are masters of their craft and it was insane to sit on an ancient lava flow watching them catch wave after wave.
I have a deep respect for anyone who can look so agile and adept on those gnarly waves. The beads I’m wearing are actually a symbol of love and respect for Hawaiian heritage and culture.
So thanks for letting me watch your crazy skills, homies. Hang ten and surfs up, dudes!
Dammit. I can’t even sound cool trying out the lingo. I’ll stop. I promise.